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Which DSLR to go for?

imagesBV

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I nearly sent a new 5DmkIV as I couldn’t get more that 3 shots/second...retailer said send it back...then phoned me after 20 mins and said ... try switching the DLO off....amazing, suddenly got 7 frames a second.
 

imagesBV

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Yes I think it’s called mirror lock- it’s in one of the menus....can’t say which one as I now use an EOS R mirror-less body
 

richy photo

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Yes I think it’s called mirror lock- it’s in one of the menus....can’t say which one as I now use an EOS R mirror-less body
Well, I cleared all camera settings when I was in the park and the old man tried the viewfinder again and was having the same problems. If all camera settings are cleared I take it this mirror lock is disabled too, right?

Anyway I disabled the mirror lock as you noted and now looking through the viewfinder it takes a picture just like in liveview. Only before it was disabled I was having difficulties taking pictures using the viewfinder. Hmm, its odd really, because when I was in the park and cleared all camera settings, well this never fixed the problem only now with disabling the mirror lock it seems to be working again.
 

imagesBV

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It could be clearer ....the difference is changes that are customisations and changes that are user settings....mirror lock up won’t happen again unless you set it.
 

richy photo

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Yeh you fixed it image. Thank You. I just in the last few moments emailed Wex again explaining it all.

Since the mirror lock has been disabled, well I can take pictures no problem now using the viewfinder. The shutter opens and closes sweet. BUT, then I enabled the mirror lock again as a peace of mind and yes the shutter just stayed open but never closed when using the viewfinder.

So you fixed it m8. Thank you for helping me
It means a lot.
 

imagesBV

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Phew...pleased it helped
This might help.
 

richy photo

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emjayaretog

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When you dabble in macro work - don't overlook the relatively-cheap extension tubes option. Lighting the subject is always going to be interesting....
 

richy photo

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When you dabble in macro work - don't overlook the relatively-cheap extension tubes option. Lighting the subject is always going to be interesting....
Hmm, macro work? Well, I have been reading about macro lenses and filters. I have ordered a 77 mm polarizing filter, which should be delivered by tomorrow, Thurs latest. Also, I am very interested in what filters or essentials I can use for flower/plant photography? Mainly used for really close up work. Suggestions anyone?

Although, I am glad to say I am now cleaning up a lot of photos I have captured since using my Canon 7D. Here is a picture I captured earlier in my local park and then I cleaned it up using Luminar 4.
IMG_0377.JPG
The settings I used to take this is as follows,
Time Captured, 16:51:18
Shooting Mode,Aperture-Priority
Shutter Speed, 1/1000
Aperture Value, 4.5
Metering Mode, Evaluative Metering
Exposure Compensation, -1
ISO Speed, 100
White Balance Mode, Cloudy
Flash

I will soon be uploading a good bunch of my photos in here for you folks to have a look.

Cheers.
 
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richy photo

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When you dabble in macro work - don't overlook the relatively-cheap extension tubes option. Lighting the subject is always going to be interesting....
Hey emjayaretog, I am so glad that you mentioned of the extension tubes. Now after some research, I now want one for how the magnification is much closer. What extension tubes would you recommend for the Canon 7D and Canon EF 24-105mm f4 L IS USM Lens? Of course, I can research this, but I am just interested in some practical advice too, especially from those who know of such stuff. I see the extension tube fits first into the camera body then the lens fixed onto the end of the extension tube. Is this right?

My main project idea now is flower/plant photography, and after some research, I can see yes, this is something that I really would like to try. I am just so glad that you have mentioned this essential gear tip.

Can these extension tubes be ok for my gear? If not, what would yourself or anyone recommend?


Cheers.
 
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Snips

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richy photo

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Macro “stuff” is out of my league but, as do many others, I do have a https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/used-equi...105mm-f-2-8-ex-macro-canon-ef-fit/sku-964958/ (this version is missing a lens hood).

I like your daffodil photograph and am impressed about you using exposure compensation so early on in your photographic career. Took me ages to grasp that one!
Ah thanks for your feedback and support m8. It means a lot.
I just been reading a lot and taking notes.
Thanks for the link. I will have a gander.
 

imagesBV

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I have the EF100f2.8L macro...expensive but excellent.....the non L version performs well also. The 100mm f2.8 also acts as a good portrait lens with very smooth bokeh.
All lenses have a magnification ratio in their spec....adding extension tubes gives you extra magnification according to he ratio of extension tube and lens focal length.
Longer lenses such as 100mm and above allow you to stand further away.....which is good if your subject is a bit twitchy about you getting close...i.e. butterflies
…..thats about all I know about macro...except its hard to focus close, you have to use small apertures for good depth of fileld
 

AlfandBen

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The shutter opens and closes sweet. BUT, then I enabled the mirror lock again as a peace of mind and yes the shutter just stayed open but never closed when using the viewfinder.
Apologies if you've already figured this out, but with mirror lock up you have to press the shutter release twice. 1 to open the shutter and the 2nd to close it.

This was taken using mirror lockup when I got my 7D and was trying out the various settings
IMG_0040a.jpg
 

richy photo

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I have the EF100f2.8L macro...expensive but excellent.....the non L version performs well also. The 100mm f2.8 also acts as a good portrait lens with very smooth bokeh.
All lenses have a magnification ratio in their spec....adding extension tubes gives you extra magnification according to he ratio of extension tube and lens focal length.
Longer lenses such as 100mm and above allow you to stand further away.....which is good if your subject is a bit twitchy about you getting close...i.e. butterflies
…..thats about all I know about macro...except its hard to focus close, you have to use small apertures for good depth of fileld
Apologies if you've already figured this out, but with mirror lock up you have to press the shutter release twice. 1 to open the shutter and the 2nd to close it.

This was taken using mirror lockup when I got my 7D and was trying out the various settings
Ahhhhhhh, that's very interesting to know. I have been researching the mirror lockup thingy, but haven't saw what you mention of.
Thanks for the tip. Great picture btw. Thanks for sharing your work.

Cheers.
 
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richy photo

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I have the EF100f2.8L macro...expensive but excellent.....the non L version performs well also. The 100mm f2.8 also acts as a good portrait lens with very smooth bokeh.
All lenses have a magnification ratio in their spec....adding extension tubes gives you extra magnification according to he ratio of extension tube and lens focal length.
Longer lenses such as 100mm and above allow you to stand further away.....which is good if your subject is a bit twitchy about you getting close...i.e. butterflies
…..thats about all I know about macro...except its hard to focus close, you have to use small apertures for good depth of fileld
As always Thank You for your input image.
 

Snips

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Re mirror lockup, on my camera it's in the second menu from the left and should be set to OFF. As above, you might have worked it out already :)
 

richy photo

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Ahhhhhhh, that's very interesting to know. I have been researching the mirror lockup thingy, but haven't saw what you mention of.
Thanks for the tip.
Re mirror lockup, on my camera it's in the second menu from the left and should be set to OFF. As above, you might have worked it out already :)
Yes snips.
 

emjayaretog

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Hey emjayaretog, I am so glad that you mentioned of the extension tubes. Now after some research, I now want one for how the magnification is much closer. What extension tubes would you recommend for the Canon 7D and Canon EF 24-105mm f4 L IS USM Lens? Of course, I can research this, but I am just interested in some practical advice too, especially from those who know of such stuff. I see the extension tube fits first into the camera body then the lens fixed onto the end of the extension tube. Is this right?

My main project idea now is flower/plant photography, and after some research, I can see yes, this is something that I really would like to try. I am just so glad that you have mentioned this essential gear tip.

Can these extension tubes be ok for my gear? If not, what would yourself or anyone recommend?


Cheers.
When looking for some extension tubes - try to get the ones that support auto focus. It's not critical - as you will probably end up focussing manually. I think I bought a set off eBay (Kenko) - the sizes you mentioned are roughly the same as mine. A cheap ring flash or ring-LED light will help if you don't have any external lights. If you get on and like the macro stuff - then it's the time to think about a dedicated macros lens (I have the 100f2.8) or a bit-of-glass-you-put-on-the-end-of-a-standard-lens....

You can use the tubes on (I guess) almost any camera
 

richy photo

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When looking for some extension tubes - try to get the ones that support auto focus. It's not critical - as you will probably end up focussing manually. I think I bought a set off eBay (Kenko) - the sizes you mentioned are roughly the same as mine. A cheap ring flash or ring-LED light will help if you don't have any external lights. If you get on and like the macro stuff - then it's the time to think about a dedicated macros lens (I have the 100f2.8) or a bit-of-glass-you-put-on-the-end-of-a-standard-lens....

You can use the tubes on (I guess) almost any camera
Ah yes, where you say that I can use the tubes on any camera is the kind of feedback that I am looking for. So I take it the links I posted up there are ok for my camera 7D? I haven't as yet ordered anything, but I am very excited about this new idea, so I thank you again for mentioning it, and more importantly of the tip for the autofocus.

Brilliant stuff.
 
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emjayaretog

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I have a 5D3 and 7D2 - as long as you get a Canon fit - it will work on any Canon camera, any EF/EF-S lens. Because the tube physically moves the lens away from the sensor - I see no reason why EF-S lenses couldn't be mated on a FF camera. It might not fill the whole sensor - but you might end up cropping anyway
 

imagesBV

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You cant put an EF-S lens on a FF camera.
But a APS-C camera like the 7D will take EF-S and EF lenses......it might be worth checking that the extension tubes work with EF-S or EF or both.
The EF extension tube will go on the 7D therefore but it won't accept an EF-S lens potentially.
Its best to keep with EF lenses if you can and then they'll be compatible should you every buy a full frame camera.
 

richy photo

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Cheers so much to emjayaretog and imagesBV for your refreshing input. I am learning so much in such a small amount of time already. Thank You.

I got my polarizing filter delivered today. Thing is, I don't really see any difference. Holding the filter up to the sky is not showing like how it is showing in the picture here [where I bought it] https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/77mm-Universal-Circular-Polarizing-Filter-CPL-UK-Seller/261228826960?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I did a little research online but haven't really found anything as yet that can verify as close to what I say. I did notice the sun glare wasn't as strong as how it does look so when the lens is not attached. My other feeling is maybe because the polarizing filter is a cheapo. It's my first ever polarizing filter lens, so I am very new to this sort of thing. But when I tested it out for the first time earlier, well when looking through the filter lens by holding it up to the sky there was actually no real difference in change like what is shown in the link provided above. So what I saw showing outside the lens, when holding the filter up to the sky, well, when looking through the lens I only saw what is seen outside the lens, as well. I hope that makes sense? So no difference at all apart from a much lesser sun glare.

Also, when out with my Canon 7D I have found when zooming in and adjusting the focus I can never really get that sharpness when looking through the viewfinder. Like there is still a little hmm, out of focus look to the subject that I am focusing on. It never looks proper sharp, always looks a little out of focus. Like kind of blurred. I always make sure the sun is behind me when I take my pictures, and of course shooting at different angles too because I know how much light changes quickly as this too can affect that sharpness that I want in my pictures. But keep in mind this is usually seen when I am zoomed right into say a flower or plant leaf. Do I really need a tripod to achieve what I want, or can sharpness be achieved without one anyway?

So after a little research online earlier I found out about the AF micro-adjustment for the Canon 7D [which I was totally unaware of] and have changed it to as showing in the link below,
https://www.amateurdigitalphoto.com/how-to-do-af-microadjustment-canon-7d/#lightbox[auto_group1]/0/
But I will test this out tomorrow daytime.

I have also, experienced when out and about with my camera well, when say I go into the settings for AV to make changes that is then shown on the LCD screen via pressing the Q button, well a lot of the settings shown on the LCD screen are all greyed out, so I have to turn the dial and then turn back to AV and wallah, the settings all look back to normal again, but when the settings are greyed out I can't tweak the settings at all, say change the aperture values etc, so I need to turn the dial and then turn the dial back to AV again so to adjust the settings. I came across something about shutter count earlier, or maybe this was something entirely different? I need to check again, but why do the settings grey out preventing from these settings being tweaked?

Oh yes, and here is the extension tube I ordered yesterday and should be here by the 2nd April,

I have also, experienced that when I have everything set and focused and I go to fully press the shutter button, well it won't take the picture. No matter what dial I set it to, it just won't take the picture. So this is something else I am researching.

I remembered to check my firmware version and found my version is 2.0.5. So after checking online I found there is a newer version here
https://www.canon.co.uk/support/consumer_products/content/faq/?itemid=tcm:14-1495640 But I need to buy a card reader so to update my Canon 7D firmware as I do not yet own a card reader.

Finally, it is all a wonderful learning experience. Some gripes and disappointments here and there, but I am soaking up all of this information. A lot of it taking a little time to understand fully, but eventually the penny will soon drop.

Cheers.
 
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imagesBV

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The polariser will only appear to work on reflected light - i.e. from a shiny surface like water or glass, or if looking at a blue sky then point to 90 degrees around from the sun....you'll see the sky go darker.

Out of focus in the viewfinder - check the diopter adjustment wheel - tiny wheel by the viewfinder window - check that before micro-adjustment which is much more difficult/time consuming to set.

Greyed out functions mean they cant be changed in that mode.

Not firing the shutter might be because the exposure requirements cant be met...i.e. too dark if in an auto mode.
 
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