Lindsay Pennell
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Thanks for that excellent information!Thanks guys.
@Minor Problem the more usual IR shots in digital use a filter to pass the 720nm wavelength of IR, and this normally works best in black and white to turn green things white as you mention, and thus get some wacky and great b&w contrast. What I've got is a camera converted to 590nm wavelength pass-band, which produces interesting b&w but is particularly fun for colour rendition. The unconverted picture is as below, but conventionally with this version, the red and blue channels are converted in post-processing so as to produce what is known as "goldie" images (like above), making blues bluer, and greens yellow. However sometimes people tweak the conversion to produce pink foliage rather than yellow. There's lots to play with!
View attachment 314165
I bought my D200 IR camera on eBay for £200-odd, the guy who sells them usually has a range of Nikons in different wavelength conversions and sometimes other cameras. There are other people who do it too, but I do recommend him: Ebay IR Conversions
Cheers Sean, I have a spare D850 with dead AF that I am unable to get repaired (long story) that I've been using for timelapse and backup that I could possibly have converted if there's enough value in it for me.That's an interesting wavelength; I'd not thought of having something done in that region. I've got a machine that's more open to the red spectrum (close to an astro) but not thought of different range conversion.
@Minor Problem there's a place in Norfolk (ACS) and also Protech in East Sussex that do conversions on user supplied bodies.
Cheers Sean, I have a spare D850 with dead AF that I am unable to get repaired (long story) that I've been using for timelapse and backup that I could possibly have converted if there's enough value in it for me.That's an interesting wavelength; I'd not thought of having something done in that region. I've got a machine that's more open to the red spectrum (close to an astro) but not thought of different range conversion.
@Minor Problem there's a place in Norfolk (ACS) and also Protech in East Sussex that do conversions on user supplied bodies.
Irresistible force against immoveable object? Just done it with the prototype I'd spent all day tweaking, other half thought I was going to boil, but it's a proto and it was bound to happen sooner or later.Cheers Sean, I have a spare D850 with dead AF that I am unable to get repaired (long story) that I've been using for timelapse and backup that I could possibly have converted if there's enough value in it for me.
That's always been my preferred option especially with mirrorless cameras (so framing & focusing can be done through the filter).Some IR nerds hold that the best option is to get a camera converted for "full spectrum" IR, ie removing the IR filter from a camera and just replacing it with clear glass. Then you buy a set of IR filters to screw on the front of your lens, one b=per wavelength (590, 680, 720/760, 850, 950). I believe they are available on eBay with the make Zomei being recommended by various people. A full set costs well under £100 from what I can see. The downside is having to use external filters, and having to focus and lock before attaching the filter as they are so dark you and the AF cannot see through the lens once the filter is on.
Amazing what the camera sees after some mods and filters etc. Strange to me though how the black on the car and the road didn't show brown as well.With some lenses you can shoot both visible & NIR together (no filter fitted) here's an example taken on a overcast day (reducing the IR): Note the teams jackets/shirts etc are black & orange not brown..
It's possibly because the paint used a pigment while the cloth is a dye, but when shooting plain IR I've often seen huge difference in how black fabrics behave. Some reflect IR & come out bright, others don't so remain dark.Amazing what the camera sees after some mods and filters etc. Strange to me though how the black on the car and the road didn't show brown as well.
Thanks for that info Mike, I never knew (but now I do, thanks to you!). I find this subject fascinating because we humans can't see the IR, just as dogs can hear a 50-kilohertz whistle and we can't. Our range is only 20 htz to 25khtz.It's possibly because the paint used a pigment while the cloth is a dye, but when shooting plain IR I've often seen huge difference in how black fabrics behave. Some reflect IR & come out bright, others don't so remain dark.
IR can also be interesting looking at inks, some become nearly invisible so you can read printed text thats been censored with a sharpie, or just had a blob of ink spilled on it (if your lucky). IR photography has often been used in fraud detection spotting some significantly altered cheques, and apparently it can help read charred documents.
Having used IR filters on my Fuji mirrorless, you can actually focus in live view (and see adequately) with the filter on.The downside is having to use external filters, and having to focus and lock before attaching the filter as they are so dark you and the AF cannot see through the lens once the filter is on.
Any mirrorless camera should shown IR on the EVF/rear screen as much as the sensor see's it. Whatever radiation the sensor sees is shown via RGB pixels in the display. Makes mirrorless bodies ideal for IR (or UV) imaging IMO.Having used IR filters on my Fuji mirrorless, you can actually focus in live view (and see adequately) with the filter on.
@Minor Problem - Barry you have an XT2 I think?
edit: the only problem is hot spots with certain lenses. I have the 35mm f2 WR which has no hot spots. There is a list online about this, some lenses there are no hot spots at certain aperture range of a given lens,whereas at the other apertures you get one. Mind you, even got hot spots with Canon lenses trying this a few years back